Thursday, March 31, 2011

david dixon F/W 2011

Running an hour late amid on-again off-again cancellation rumours, David Dixon’s “Escape to Jakarta” fall/winter showcase did not get off to a good start. Impatient audience members had already stood in a 40-minute line for admittance and became increasingly antsy as they waited in their seats for the kickoff. Front row yawns were spotted, and at least one “okay, this better be fierce” was overheard.

A fierce start it was not. Instead of rushing forward with the show, we were treated to a filmed retrospective titled Sweet Sixteen, a compilation of black and white montages, lengthy voiceovers and various looks from the past. Had it begun at its original 9:30 p.m. start time (the show finally got rolling at 11 p.m.), we might have smiled and feigned interest in the sentiment, but thanks to whatever we’re-so–New York schedule LG Fashion Week is operating on, we were starting to feel like this whole affair was meant to serve as punishment. Suffer for fashion, right?

The show’s highlights began with a flowing red crepe de Chine leopard print gown with leather paillette detailing around the neck, while a selection of not-too-fussy jackets and coats were featured prominently in black, including a standout topper made of sequin and boiled wool. Black and white dresses in ikat cottons and organzas were the strongest allusion to Indonesia, while a black floor-length gown with leather polka dots and capped sleeves offered a modern take on a ball gown.

Less intriguing looks included a knee-length dress in white with a black lace and laser cut overlay, as well as “digital python” charmeuse pieces that came across far more exciting in name than in execution. Dixon knows how to make feminine frocks, but this vision became muddled in an assortment of repetitive prints or, in one case, a fringe skirt made of sheet metal that fell apart on the runway.

After the show, we snapped out of our dreamlike journey to Jakarta and, clutching to our gifted VitaminWater, went in search of the nearest exit.

Well. That's the official review. My other one questioned why Dixon would choose Jakarta specifically as a mental focal point. The notes from the show mentioned that he hasn't been on holiday in 15 years, and seeing as all I've heard of Jakarta is that it's a cesspool of stinking concrete, it struck me as quite the odd destination....




krane F/W 2011


Showing for the first time at LG Fashion Week, KRANE designer Ken Chow certainly knows how to wow a crowd. While guests were vying for seats of any kind in the smaller showroom, designer sisters ChloƩ and Parris Gordon were spotted in pieces from their new collection. An ebullient Robin Kay hobnobbed with Suzanne Boyd as Derick Chetty tweeted about how Viktor&Rolf the runway was, what with the coats and bags dangling from meat hooks and all.

As the show began, squeals of delight were heard from giggly girls and boys in response to the winsome male models. A well-cut green jacket – created from revitalized Italian military blankets from the 1940s – was plucked from a hook and added to ankle-grazing black pants, a grey shirt with breast pockets, and a leather bow-tie, making for a look with rugged urban polish. Leather elbow patches, exposed zippers and shearling trim on bombers and jackets were some details that helped make this collection.

Mid-show we were given a bit of a performance that saw two limber gents do a backflip or two while tossing about pieces from the bag collection. It was a fun way to break up a show, though not all the bags seemed to get the air-time they deserved. Back into the swing of things again, the focus was on pants – a great pair in leather had extra length to add a certain nonchalance – and belts-cum-suspenders which were worn over bare chests. Somehow, at that moment there was nothing manlier than a guy who could pull off a one-shouldered brace, with or without a shirt on. With its rough sex appeal, KRANE has us excited for menswear again.